Gyeongju National Museum: Where I Spent My Last Afternoon in Gyeongju

After the Namsan Mountain hike, I rested a bit at my guesthouse and then went around downtown to visit the Gyeongju National Museum. It's quite a big museum with free admission and it houses quite a lot of relics.

I rented an audio guide (for KRW2000). However, that day, I learned that audio guides aren't exactly for me because most of the stuff in the audio guide can be read in the exhibit. Plus, I'm not good at remembering things so most things I learned really just slip away eventually lol.

Actually, if you're not such a museum/history/art nut and you've seen the relics in Anapji and Daereungwon Tombs, the museum could be quite redundant. Nevertheless, admission is free so it's actually a good way to pass time when you're downtown. Also, photography is allowed. (You can't use flashes and tripods, though.)

Doesn't this remind you of historial Korean dramas?

Silla Kingdom was definitely a wealthy kingdom.

The civil engineer in me had fun learning about roof construction.

I only went to three exhibition halls but I think there are a few more. I was just really tired that afternoon so I decided to rest my feet and have some snack at the cafe inside the museum. And then before dusk fell, I started walking back to the restaurants downtown to find dinner.

I passed by Wolseong area at sunset and chanced upon these beautiful views. It just felt perfect. I can't remember the last time I watched the sun set in the mountains (in Nepal, most probably).

And then it came to me that I was going to leave for Busan the next morning and I realized how much I enjoyed my stay in Gyeongju. I climbed a temple, met very nice people, went hiking and I did a lot of walking. The language barrier proved to be a challenge but Gyeongju was definitely amazing.

Gyeongju National Park: My First Solo Hiking Experience

This is something I debated with myself for a long time the night before: should I go hiking at Gyeongju National Park in Namsan Mountain or spend my day somewhere else? So I asked Google and read a bunch of articles and blogs.

I wanted to go because (1) I was very interested in seeing carvings and statues in the mountains, (2) they say it's a must-see in Gyeongju so I kind of didn't want to miss out on that, and (3) all the articles and blogs I read say that it's an easy hike (one even said that even children can manage the hike). 

Now the reason I was hesitant to go is because (1) I didn't have proper gear (Heck, I didn't even bring my running shoes because my backpack was full.), (2) I get tired rather easily, and (3) I was scared of going alone. (Remember the mountaineer who died in Mt. Maculot while he was hiking alone? I didn't know the guy but he was my high school batchmate's boyfriend... may he rest in peace.)

However, I remembered that I've climbed Mt. Banahaw in Quezon wearing flip-flops so why wouldn't I manage Namsan Mountain in my flats? I also read that Namsan Mountain always has a lot of hikers so I guessed I wouldn't really be alone. Also, the French traveler I met the day before apparently likes hiking so I asked him what he loves about it, then he showed me some photos of beautiful views he took in his previous hikes and then I was like "Ohh I see now!" I guess I also got curious about the whole hiking thing so I wanted to try it.

That morning, after breakfast, I went to the bus stop near my guesthouse (the bus stop in front of the Post Office, near Gyeongju Station), rode bus #500 and went down at Samneung Valley. (I actually wrote down my stop in hangeul in a piece of paper and gave it to the bus driver but, turns out, I didn't have to because it was a common stop.)

From the stop, I walked back around a hundred meters toward the Tourist Information Center (located at the parking lot). The staff there did not speak English but through some illustrations and gestures, I was able to understand his instructions haha.

Three Royal Tombs

At the foot of the mountain, I did my stretching and then started my hike. It was very easy at first and there was even a short boardwalk. However, at some point, it became really difficult.

Boardwalk with pine trees all around

Looks easy... at first

Damaged stone Buddhas

Seated stone Buddha without a head

Gwaneumbosal Image Carving

When I reached this carving called Yukjonbul, I couldn't find a proper trail but I saw a group of middle-aged people climbing the side of the rock without a fuss (Apparently, that's the rock trail that the map mentioned.) so I went as well.

Yukjonbul Rock Carving (the carvings are not very noticeable but they're there)
See the a man above? Yup, I climbed that rock.

At this point, I realized that hiking without proper gear was a very bad decision. I almost slipped a couple of times which could have resulted to a very bad fall or maybe even worse ugh. Thankfully, a group of Spanish travelers (around 50 to 65 years old) whom I helped with directions earlier that morning were there as well so they helped me out. And as much as I'd like to back out, I could not because the way back would be even more dangerous. I had no choice but to continue moving up. (Oohh doesn't that sound a lot like life? Lol.)

Seated Yeorae Image carving (plus the Spanish travelers who helped me)

We reached this carving called Yeorae and then when I looked behind me...

"Wow" was all I could say.

I couldn't properly capture the beautiful view but all I can say is that when I saw this view, I finally learned why people love hiking. Sure, I see many photos of friends' and acquaintances' hiking trips all over Facebook and Instagram but it just doesn't compare to seeing this view in person.

A few more hurdles and we finally got out of the difficult part of the trail and after a few minutes of rest, I felt energized again so I carried on. There were man-made trails but the path was getting steeper so I kept huffing and puffing and my breaks were becoming more frequent.

Seated Stone Buddha of Samneung Valley

Eventually, I reached the Sangseon-am Hermitage, where many locals were praying. At that point, I was debating with myself whether to continue going up to the Geumobong Peak or to go down? I was already very tired and I was scared of slipping again. Well, I decided to go down because I didn't want to risk myself any further. It was quite a fast way down and I didn't have to pass by the difficult rock trails anymore so it's much easier.

At the Sangseon-am Hermitage

I also decided to take a look at the temples at the foot of the mountain. The walking turned out to be a good way to cool down.

I also passed by a graveyard.

Mangwolsa (Temple)

Baeri Standing Stone Statue Buddhas in Sambulsa

Sambulsa (Temple)

Well, that was a really amazing, albeit risky and scary experience. The whole hiking took me 3 hours (10am to 1pm) and then I returned to my guesthouse for some rest before going out again.

Lessons learned? (1) Never hike without proper gear. (2) Don't believe the internet when it tells you that a hike is easy... at least not when you're a clumsy non-hiker like me. (3) NEVER. HIKE. ALONE. EVER. (4) Hiking is fun!

I'm actually looking for some easy hiking trips around Manila but I ought to find some hiking buddies first. :)

Downtown Gyeongju

When I booked my [promo] flight to South Korea, I didn't really know where else to go aside from Seoul. After a few Google searches, I read about a place called Gyeongju and immediately knew that I wanted to go there. It's the capital of the ancient kingdom in Korea called Silla so it's rich in culture and history. My worst subject in high school may be History (because I'm really bad at remembering things) but that doesn't mean I'm not interested in it.

After having lunch below Bulguksa, I went to the bus stop to head downtown. There I met a French traveler who, apparently, was also heading downtown. It was great meeting him because finally I was able to speak to someone in straight English lol. We were headed to the same places so I had a travel buddy that afternoon! You see, that's one of the things I like about solo travel-- you tend to meet new people from whom you can learn many new things.

We went first to the Daereungwon Royal Tombs. The tombs of the Silla Kingdom are marked by mounds of earth that look like hills. One of the tombs, Cheonmachong, is accessible to the public and there's even a nice exhibit inside where you can see some artifacts excavated from the tombs. 

They remind me of the Chocolate Hills of Bohol. (I haven't been there but I hope to visit soon!)

They also remind me of sinusoids! *nerd alert nerd alert*

After the tombs, we walked to the famous Cheomsongdae Observatory. Apparently, this astronomical observatory is a national treasure and was very important during the Silla Period. However, to be honest, it's quite underwhelming because it's small. Then again, it was built in the 7th century so I don't really expect a high very structure from that time period.

We walked to Wolseong Fortress which didn't have any traces of walls or a palace anymore but there's a structure there called the Seokbinggo Ice Storehouse which was interesting for me because it reminds me of the dungeon where Daenerys (Game of Thrones) locked up her dragons haha.

I can totally imagine Rhaegal and Viserion inside lol.

And then we walked to Anapji Pond, an artificial pond that is said to be a great example of Silla Kingdom landscaping. There were a few pavilions and one of them even housed an exhibit of relics excavated from the original pond. 

Finally, when we had nowhere else to go, we headed back to downtown. My first whole day in Gyeongju was not bad at all! It's a small city but it's fun because it's very walkable and the beautiful sights are not very far from downtown. The countryside vibe is such a great break from the hustle, bustle and pollution of Manila. Plus, I met new people which really made it a lot more fun!

A random house behind Cheomsongdae. There are so many traditional houses/structures in Gyeongju

Bulguksa: In Which Strangers Treat Me to Lunch

A couple of days before my flight, rains were quite strong and I was worried that my flight to Incheon might get cancelled. Thankfully, it was sunny in Manila that morning and the flight was pretty smooth. I arrived at Incheon International Airport at noon and bought a bus ticket to Gyeongju. After a comfortable 5-hour trip on a luxury bus, I arrived at Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal. That was when the challenge started-- I could not find the bus stop for the local buses and no one spoke English! Well, I found it eventually, rode the correct bus and went down the correct bus stop but another problem presented itself-- I could not find my guesthouse! It was dark, the city seemed asleep (though it wasn't even 8pm yet) and I could not read street signs well. (I really should have gotten my eyeglasses' lenses changed before coming to South Korea.) However, by some miracle, I found my guesthouse. I was staying in a dorm but I had no roommates that night so hurray for sound sleep!

Having spent the entire Sunday traveling, I was, of course, excited to go on an adventure the next day. Gyeongju isn't very easy to navigate because buses are the common mode of transportation and you won't find anything inside the bus translated to English. Also, not all the bus stops have English labels on them! There are many taxis in Gyeongju but because I'm traveling on a budget, taxis are not an option. Thankfully, my guesthouse is near a Tourist Information Center (by the train station) and major tourist spots aren't very difficult to find so I found my way to Bulguksa without a problem.

It was quite a climb from the Bulguksa bus stop to the temple itself but the air is fresh, the surroundings are nice and the weather was cool. It was tiring but it wasn't so bad.

Bulguksa is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Treasure of South Korea. It's a big complex and there are many structures to see.

Sometimes, I wish I knew more about Buddhism so that I will be able to admire Buddhist temples better but even so, I enjoyed exploring Bulguksa. Thankfully too, the place wasn't crowded.

The paintings in South Korea's temples are amazing.

At noon, I went down toward the bus stop and then my tummy started looking for lunch. I found a complex full of restaurants near the bus stop. The place was very big but it seemed almost deserted. I went inside one of the restaurants and found that the only customers was a middle-aged couple. I read from somewhere that in Korea, dining out is considered a social activity so I guess that's why after I ordered food, the said couple invited me to share their table. Thinking that there's no harm sharing a table, I obliged. The lady spoke very little English and her boyfriend practically none. They kept talking to me in Korean and I just kept smiling. We shared food and they even shared makgeolli (alcoholic beverage made with rice) with me. It was actually fun. I mean, I was eating with locals!

Eventually, I decided that I wanted to continue exploring Gyeongju so I told them that I was going to another place and then when I was about to bring out my wallet to pay for my meal, the lady stopped me from bringing it out. I got surprised and confused... were they telling me that they're going to pay for my meal?? Apparently, yes. 

And that's the story of how strangers paid for my lunch in Bulguksa. Ah, such kindness!

Autumn

I just came back from a 10-day trip in South Korea. I visited Gyeongju, Busan and Seoul and went to day trips to Suwon and Gapyeong as well. I went alone and it was cool. I visited many places and met amazing people too.

Bulguksa in Gyeongju

Yonggungsa in Busan, situated on the cliffs by the beach, is now my favorite temple

The Cheobjong (Palace Guard Inspection Ceremony) held in front of Gyeokbukgung in Seoul

Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon City

Nami Island in Gapyeong

I'm in a serious backlog (I haven't even finished writing about my Japan trip last year haha) so I really need to catch up! On a lighter note though, that means I won't be running out of things to write about anytime soon.